In Kraków, we linger on one of Europe's most crowd-pleasing squares, marvel at past glories in art galleries and at Wawel Castle, and savor Polish cuisine ? including a lesson in making pierogi by hand. Nearby, the communist-planned town of Nowa Huta offers a nostalgic spin through the Cold War days, while the sobering concentration camp memorial of Auschwitz-Birkenau honors victims of the Nazis.